And its minor tweaks, crucial cold temperature and sensational finish make it an expert antidote to NYC’s recent martini and novel cocktail malaise. It also, like at Clover Club, comes with a sidecar. The larger house martini, for example, with gin, rosé vermouth, fino sherry and Amaro Santoni comes in a more or less expected vessel (though less-so than the “Big Apple” variety) at 24.85% ABV. And all are printed with their alcohol by volume.
A few options are listed in “cheeky” or “full-figured” sizes for $10 or $20. The menu, like at Leyenda, has a glass legend in the margin. Milady’s is a new classic restaurant and bar rather than a bar with food, but its drinks stand up to dedicated mixology spots.
THE NEWSBAR NYC MAC
A crab mac and cheese ($24 “high dive”) is likewise an excellent blueprint for the dish, packed with and wedded to its trio of titular ingredients, with gentle portions of Old Bay and green chiles. Two beef patties are lightly smashed and prepared to a perfect not-too-doneness for their quick-to-heat dimensions, then joined by lettuce, tomato, onion, ideal American cheese and a creamy party sauce on an easily handled plush bun, and served with golden fries. The Milady’s burger ($23 “dive”) is among the best in class. The latter’s shrimp cocktail ($27), with its own nice sauce, is as fresh and finely presented as any, if a bit of a reminder especially after the fantastic sausage bites, that these categories are in the eye of the beholder. At dinner, jalapeño corn dog poppers ($16) are filed to the former, plated about six two-bite bits to an order, all terrifically rich and juicy inside with a whisper of heat, enrobed in a thin cloak of batter and paired with zippy yellow mustard to dip. Previously of Park Slope’s Applewood and Reiner’s own Clover Club, Executive chef /partner Sam Sherman’s menu is described as “dive bar inspired” in a press release-phrasing that courts all kinds of discourse and would undoubtedly invite derision were it not all as good as it is.īrunch, lunch and evening fare’s all divided into “dive” or “high dive” distinctions.
THE NEWSBAR NYC WINDOWS
Enter on the corner, bar’s on the right, tables on the left, though now between chairs and banquettes done in subdued sunflower hues against large windows and pale cornflower-colored walls that fade out of recognition at night when the place is particularly crackling. With at least one other business occupying the address in the interim, the interior’s new but the layout’s the same. The destination characterized as “blue collar” in that same article opened under the earlier name last October with New York City hospitality maestro Julie Reiner (Clover Club, Leyenda) in power. “It’s a dive bar,” then-owner Frank Genovese told the paper at the time. By then, it had become one of just a few destinations antithetical to surrounding Soho’s shopping mall sprawl. The original Milady’s, which reportedly might have been operating since the 1940s, became so beloved serving Budweiser, Wild Turkey, potato skins and chicken wings that it got the whole New York Times wake reportage treatment when it closed in 2014. This also almost never happens, but 160 Prince Street might have even retained a little bit of its erstwhile local favorite namesake’s sparkle. It’s one uncontrollable way to make people feel welcome, and the rest adds up to more orchestrated comfort. That’s Milady’s, even on recent weekends at standard going-out times.
Sometimes in movies, people meet in restaurants or bars that look too crowded but then turn out to have the perfect booth or corner seats.
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